Fie allo Sciliar (Vols am Schlern in German) is a municipality in the Trentino-Alto Adige region of Northern Italy. Containing several hamlets and villages, the area is a popular trekking location during the warmer months. The Alpe di Siusi (Seiser Alm), located a short distance from Fie, is an undulating high alpine meadow filled with pastureland and dotted with farms and huts to accommodate travelers. Above the meadows soar the craggy peaks of the Dolomites.
Arriving in mid-February during a winter of historically low snowpack, we focused most of our days on finding snow at higher elevations. However, during a rest day in Fie, we decided to explore a series of trails threading in and out of the forest below Schlern mountain, whose distinct profile has made it a Tyrolean landmark.
With the warm weather and lack of snowpack, the smell of pasture was heavy in the air as we made our way through the fields. Trails crisscrossed grazing land, with signposts at major junctions marking destinations like the Laghetto di Fie, a lake at the edge of the mountain meadow, and numerous alpine huts offering beds and a hot meal after a day of hiking.
The slope rose steeply as we entered the forest, with a slender trail to follow as we picked our way in and out of a brittle crust of snow preserved by the thick pine canopy. Despite the stillness and absence of any other travelers on the trail, the long history of the area as a hiking destination was evident; at odd intervals, we came across intricately carved railings, as well as fanciful mushrooms carved from tree stumps.
Every so often, a fence would meander into view - an animal paddock built skillfully into the slope. Emerging once again from the forest, we passed by Malga Hofer, an impressive alpine lodge and restaurant overlooking the valley and the neighboring village of Umes. Leaving the forest behind, we traversed the meadows down to Umes, located exactly where the Rio Sciliar separates the area of Fie from neighboring Presule. At the center of Umes is the S. Martino Church (below), dating to the 17th century.
